Tissue With an Insert Edge and Use of Said Tissue

ABSTRACT

A woven fabric, especially a jeans fabric, with a ground fabric ( 140 ) and a laid-in selvedge ( 135 ) is produced. In this regard, the end sections ( 138 ) of the weft threads ( 137 ) are folded over at the edge ( 147 ) of the woven fabric and are again guided back into the woven fabric. Thereby the ends ( 139 ) of the weft thread end sections ( 138 ) can be dispersed over a range a and cause optical disturbance. A field ( 144 ) with alphanumeric characters, logos or at least one color is woven into the laid-in selvedge ( 135 ). The field ( 144 ) serves for advertising purposes and makes the ends ( 139 ) of the weft thread end sections ( 138 ) completely or substantially invisible, in that the ends ( 139 ) are covered in a weave-technical manner on the top side and the bottom side of the woven fabric, or are given the same color as the warp threads ( 109  to  117 ) in the area of the field ( 144 ).

The invention relates to a woven fabric with a tucked or laid-in selvedge formed by tucked or laid-in weft thread end sections, according to the preambles of the claims 1 to 3.

Woven fabrics of this type are generally known. Furthermore, woven fabrics with name selvedges are known. Companies that produce especially high-valued woven fabrics weave a name selvedge into the woven fabric, whereby the name selvedge is laid into the base or ground fabric inwardly displaced at a certain spacing distance from the woven fabric edge, and then during the later processing, for example such as during the use of the woven fabric in the manufacturing of ready-made articles, the name selvedge is removed or cut-away as waste. A significant advantage of weaving-in a name selvedge into the woven fabric or the cloth is that the origin of the cloth cannot be falsified or counterfeited for instance by sewed-on or glued-on or ironed-on signatures. A tucking or laying-in, into the woven fabric, of such a name selvedge, however has the disadvantage, that relatively much waste arises in the processing of the woven fabric. Name selvedges in woven fabrics can, for example, be produced in a conventional manner by a jacquard machine, especially when a high quality of the name selvedge is to be produced by a relatively high number of warp threads in the name selvedge, or by a dobby or heald shaft machine when a lower quality of the name selvedge due to a lower number of warp threads in the name selvedge is sufficient.

Furthermore, for jeans, especially in the upper price segment, there has been a style or fashion development, to produce the cloth for such high-priced jeans on traditional weaving looms. In the traditional weaving looms, the weft thread is inserted into the loom shed by means of a so-called “shuttle”. In that regard, the weft thread is drawn off from a spool in the shuttle, and on each side of the woven fabric, after the shuttle has completely traversed through the loom shed, the weft thread is folded over or deflected back on the fabric edge and is again inserted in the opposite direction into the next loom shed. Thereby there arises a woven fabric edge produced on a shuttle weaving loom, which is often also referred to as a weaving loom edge or selvedge. In this woven fabric edge, one and the same weft thread density or sett is present over the entire width of the woven fabric. In such a woven fabric, the name selvedge can, in principle, always be woven into the woven fabric at any location with the above mentioned jacquard machines or dobby or heald shaft machines. The disadvantage of such woven fabrics produced on traditional weaving looms, especially jeans fabrics, is that the productivity thereof is very low due to extremely low rotational speeds.

It would now be desirable to bring such a name selvedge as close as possible to the woven fabric edge, so that especially in jeans the signature or name text of the producer or of the designer or other informations in the form of a logo, alphanumeric characters or also colors is or are visible in the finished ready-made product for example in the folded-over hem.

High-productivity weaving looms nowadays operate as gripper weaving looms or as air jet weaving looms. In gripper weaving looms a weft thread is generally inserted into the loom shed mechanically by means of the grippers, whereas in air jet weaving looms the weft thread is generally inserted into the loom shed by means of an air jet or air pulse. In the following, only such woven fabrics will be considered, which comprise such a tucked or laid-in selvedge. For such a tucked or laid-in selvedge, both the pneumatically inserted weft thread as well as the mechanically inserted weft thread, after the weft thread has completely traversed through the loom shed, at their respective ends are again led back partially again into the loom shed in the direction of the weft thread, so that the so-called tucked or laid-in selvedge arises. The weft thread ends that are again tucked or laid-in at the margin or border of the woven fabric lead to the result that a double weft thread density or sett is present in the area of the tucking or laying-in depth of the weft thread end sections in comparison with the remaining woven fabric, the so-called base or ground fabric. For mechanically inserted weft threads, the tucking or laying-in depth of the weft thread end sections is generally relatively constant, whereby a fluctuation or oscillation of the laying-in depth is however possible, whereas the laying-in depth for pneumatically inserted weft thread end sections is generally dispersed or scattered in a certain range. In gripper weaving looms, laying-in depths of approximately 10 to 12 mm are typically achieved or produced, whereas in air jet weaving looms the laying-in depth often lies in the range of approximately 5 to 20 mm.

With gripper weaving looms as well as air jet weaving looms, it is possible to achieve high quality also despite a high productivity in the production of woven fabrics. If, however, woven fabrics with a tucked or laid-in selvedge are produced, due to the doubled weft thread density in the area of the laid-in selvedge, it is not possible without further efforts to arrange at that location still additionally or at all a so-called name selvedge or rather a field with alphanumeric characters, logos or with at least one color. Among other things, difficulties exist in arranging such a name selvedge for example as an advertisement medium in the hem of ready-made jeans, among other things for the reason that the laid-in weft thread ends protrude or stick out of the woven fabric and this does not correspond to the high esthetic requirements especially of high-priced ready-made goods. Further problems can arise, for example in that waves or puckers arise due to the doubled weft thread density in the area of the laid-in selvedge or also in the ground fabric, which waves or puckers make a name selvedge for advertising media unsuitable, in which high, also esthetic, demands are required. Moreover, problems can arise in that the ground fabric is subjected to a thermal treatment, for example sanforization, and thereby it may be the case that it is subject to a shrinkage, whereas the thread material used for a name selvedge has characteristics deviating therefrom, and allows a waving or puckering or an irregularity that possibly was not yet present in the weaving process, to become visible after the thermal treatment of the woven fabric.

The provision of color is also of great economic significance in this context. A characteristic feature of high-priced jeans is, for example, a typical weaving loom edge, which is predominantly carried out white and comprises a red thread in the white section. Company-specific color strips or stripes are also known. Furthermore, in jeans fabrics the weft threads comprise a different, often white color from that of the warp threads, which often have a blue color. Thus, in a laid-in selvedge the disadvantage arises, that especially light weft thread ends, especially if they are not completely covered up in the field, are at least partially visible next to or between blue or other-colored warp threads. That is, however, not accepted as an “authentic” jeans fabric edge, especially not in the high price segment, according to the above described fashion trend.

According to a prior state of the art, according to the CH 688 382 A5, a method is proposed for the production of woven fabrics of the cloth types Ghutra and Yashmagh for uni or plain goods as well as patterned Arabian head scarfs or turbans. In that regard, gripper and projectile weaving looms are utilized. These woven fabrics have laid-in selvedges which are there referred to as lisières or mock selvedges, and which are terminated toward the ground fabric by a relatively narrow termination netting or webbing strip. According to the suggestion of the CH 688 382 A5, the ends of the laid-in weft thread end sections are bound into the termination or closure warp strip or stripe. The closure warp strip in that regard comprises a higher warp thread density than the ground fabric and the largest width range of the laid-in selvedge, and covers-over the ends of the weft thread end sections with a twill or satin weave. Thereby there shall be formed a straight, sharply bounded woven web edge closure or termination, so as to avoid the optically frayed appearing transition of the normal selvedge to the ground fabric. The fixing or specifying of a narrow closure warp strip of a particular weave binding type, which additionally is located at a spacing distance from the woven fabric band or web, means a constraining for purposes of the design or embodiment effective for advertising.

The object of the present invention, in contrast thereto, exists in arranging a name selvedge or rather a field with alphanumeric characters, logos or with at least one color in the area of a laid-in selvedge of a woven fabric in such a quality and so close to the edge or border of the woven fabric, so that the name selvedge can be used as an advertising medium in ready-made woven fabrics, and in connection therewith such a woven fabric with such a name selvedge can be produced with high economy.

A first solution of this object is carried out according to the invention through a woven fabric with the features according to claim 1.

A second solution of the mentioned object is carried out according to the invention by a woven fabric with the features of the claim 2.

A third solution to the mentioned object is carried out according to the invention by a woven fabric with the features of the patent claim 3.

Embodiments suitable for the purpose of all three solutions are set forth in the dependent claims.

According to claim 21, the invention also relates to the use of the inventive woven fabric. This claim relates to the use of a field with alphanumeric characters, logos or with at least one color arranged in a laid-in selvedge of a woven fabric as an advertising medium or as a brand mark on a visible location of a finished or ready-made article of clothing or a service or utility article and furnishing or fitting article comprising the woven fabric according to one of the claims 1 to 20.

Ready-made clothing articles in the sense of the claim 21 comprise, above all, ready-made jackets, pants, shirts, suits and ladies' two-piece suits, especially of jeans cloths, but also athletic and leisure clothing for women and men in general; the ready-made service or utility articles and furnishing or fitting articles are, for example, ready-made curtains and draperies, covers of chairs and upholstered furniture as well as seats in rail and roadway vehicles as well as aircraft.

The use according to claim 21 does not extend to Arabian head scarfs or turbans, wrapping garments, bed linens, and jacquard-woven cotton damasks.

It is common to all three solution proposals, that the woven fabric comprises a laid-in selvedge that is formed by laid-in weft thread end sections. In that regard, the laid-in selvedge is produced mechanically or pneumatically, whereby the weft threads are longer than the width of the woven fabric to be woven, and the weft thread end sections thereof are folded or laid over at the edge of the woven fabric and are again laid-into the loom shed, so that the doubled weft thread density is present in the area of the laid-in selvedge. It is further common to all three solution proposals, that a field with alphanumeric characters, with logos or with at least one color is woven into the laid-in selvedge, whereby the field is preferably useable as an advertising medium. Preferably the woven fabric comprises such a field in the laid-in selvedge on both sides. The part of the woven fabric that is present between the laid-in selvedges with the inventive field is designated or referenced as the base or ground fabric.

Regarding the First Inventive Solution

According to the first inventive solution, the field is woven into the laid-in selvedge in such a manner so that the ends of the laid-in weft thread end sections are covered by the field in a binding or weave technical manner. For this purpose, the ends of the laid-in weft thread end sections are covered by individual field warp threads or—according to an advantageous further development—by one or more additional field warp threads, that is to say border warp threads. Through the correct selection of the binding or weave type, it can be achieved, that the ends of the weft thread end sections are not visible on the surface of the woven fabric both on its upper or top side as well its lower or bottom side.

The skilled worker in the field knows with which weave types the desired uniform appearance on both sides can be achieved, namely for example by symmetrical weave types, especially a 1/1 plain weave, 2/2 or double weaves, and weaves with a similar effect.

A field that makes the ends of the weft thread end sections invisible or hidden on both sides of the woven fabric achieves that the supposed disadvantage of the laid-in selvedge becomes an advantage. This laid-in selvedge not only looks exactly like a woven fabric selvedge produced with an endless weft thread, but also is moreover effective as an unobtrusive advertising medium.

In that regard the width of the field is selected so that on the one hand it is as close as possible to the direct edge of the woven fabric, and on the other hand, the width is so large depending on the laid-in depth or the dispersion of the laying-in depth of the weft thread end sections, so that the ends are covered in the field and thereby optically not visible outside on the woven fabric.

In that regard, the term “field” or “name selvedge” is to be understood as referring to the area of all threads that cover the weft thread end sections. These are especially the direct field warp threads that form the width of the actual field or the actual fields, as well as possibly present, as the case may be, border warp threads bounding the actual field or the actual fields, which are preferably plain woven, 2/2 or double woven (for example see threads numbers 7, 8 and 19, 20 in FIG. 1).

While the field warp threads are especially or chiefly specified for forming the alphanumeric characters, logos or a certain color, the border warp threads shall prevent a running-off of the field and ensure a clean transition to the border of the woven fabric and to the ground fabric. Therefore, they are characterized and/or woven-in in a manner deviating from the field warp threads. In the transition to the edge or to the border of the woven fabric, in that regard it is only a question of the definition if one also categorizes the warp threads up to the border of the woven fabric still as border warp threads of the field, or if one better speaks of its own border strip with its own warp threads.

A significant advantage of such an inventive woven fabric with a field in the area of the laid-in selvedge, which normally does not achieve the quality of a field with normal, that is to say, single, weft thread density, is that, among other things, the field or the name selvedge is useable as an advertising medium for ready-made goods, and in fact in such a manner that with an arrangement of the field in the greatest possible proximity to the direct edge of the woven fabric, the name selvedge or the field is arranged in the hem in the later production of ready-made goods, and the hem then forms a visible advertising medium, for example with crumpled-up or rolled-up pants legs of jeans. Moreover, in the production of ready-made clothing, the hemming of the edges of the woven fabric is saved or avoided. The ready-made goods coming into consideration can be clothing articles, service or utility articles, and furnishing or fitting articles. Examples of this are given further above in connection with the use claim 21.

A further advantage exists in that a woven-in laid-in selvedge, which is purposely or knowingly not removed during the production of ready-made articles, provides a significantly higher security against falsification or counterfeiting, because the field is woven-in and is not sewed-on or ironed-on or glued-on. This plays a significant role especially with high-priced ready-made articles.

In order that the field corresponds optically or esthetically essentially to a woven fabric edge produced with an endless weft thread, at least the weft threads of the ground fabric and the warp threads of the field are tuned or adapted or matched to one another with respect to thread number, laying-in depth, material, fineness, quality, pre-treatment, etc. It is especially important and advantageous if, according to a further advantageous further development, at least the warp threads in the area of the field, in which the ends of the weft thread end sections are arranged, and the weft threads of the ground fabric consist of the same material.

The tuning or adapting to one another is further carried out so that a woven fabric with a laid-in selvedge serving as an advertising medium is producible, which has waves or puckering neither in the field nor in the ground fabric, which corresponds to high quality demands, and which does not lead to any changes or inhomogeneities between the field or the name selvedge and the ground fabric even in thermal treatment (finishing) of the woven fabric.

Advantageously, the warp threads of the field are adapted to the characteristics of the weft threads or also the warp threads of the woven fabric through thermal and/or chemical pre-treatment. In that regard it is to be understood, that in a case in which the material of the ground fabric does not shrink, for example, in a thermal treatment or a chemical treatment or a combination of a thermal and chemical treatment, but the material of the warp threads of the field generally does tend to shrink, then the material of the warp threads of the field is subjected to a thermal and/or a chemical pre-treatment, that is embodied so that in the later processing of the complete woven fabric the behavior of the material of the field no longer deviates from the behavior of the material of the ground fabric, so that waviness can be prevented or excluded both in the field as well as in the ground fabric even after a treatment of the woven fabric.

According to a further advantageous embodiment, the warp threads of the field are adapted, with respect to their tension, to the characteristics of the weft threads of the woven fabric or also of the warp threads of the woven fabric. By the adjustability of the tension of the field warp threads it can also be achieved, that their characteristics can be brought into harmonization with those of the weft threads or weft threads and warp threads of the ground fabric.

Depending on whether the laid-in selvedge of the woven fabric was produced mechanically or pneumatically, the width of the field or of the name selvedge in the laid-in selvedge is embodied in such a manner so that the field completely covers the ends of the weft thread end sections, that may, if the case exists, be scattered or dispersed with respect to the laying-in depth. Through the covering of the ends of the weft thread end sections in or by the field, and namely both on the top side as well as also on the bottom side of the woven fabric, the quality of the field serving as the advertising medium is significantly improved.

Preferably the field is embodied as a continuous or through-going strip or stripe in the form of a name selvedge, a logo selvedge or a color selvedge. Thereby, the advertising medium can be applied over the entire length of the woven fabric or over the entire applied hem. It is, however, also possible that the field is embodied section-wise or consists of at least one individual section. In that regard, the section is preferably so arranged that in a later use of this woven fabric the field will become visible as an advertising medium, such as for example being arranged in the hem of jeans at a location that becomes visible, for example by folding or rolling up the pants leg.

In further embodiment, the warp threads of the field can be embodied to light-up, to be electrically conductive, metallized and/or information-transmitting. The warp threads of the field can also be embodied with woven-in pockets, whereby light emitting bodies, pearls, gemstones, or jewelry or ornamental elements and/or sensors for, for example, monitoring physical body characteristics, can be received in the pockets. Such a special embodiment of the advertising medium field is especially preferred in high-priced, ready-made goods.

Preferably the field in the laid-in selvedge comprises a minimum width of essentially 5 mm, preferably 15 to 20 mm, further preferably 15 to 50 mm or more. In ready-made goods of jeans fabric, a maximum width of the field of 15 mm has been shown to be advantageous. In that regard, the field is laid as close as possible to the direct edge of the woven fabric, yet reaches in a direction toward the ground fabric so far into the ground fabric so that the ends of the weft thread end sections, which are laid-in and form the laid-in selvedge with doubled weft thread density, are covered by the field.

According to a further development of the invention, the field is arranged as a doubled-layered or double-ply woven fabric either on the top side or on the bottom side of the ground fabric, and is connected with the ground fabric by means of double cloth weaves or bindings. This has the advantage that the field serving as an advertising medium is lifted or elevated optically or esthetically out of the top surface of the ground fabric.

Preferably still a further field is present in the woven fabric, which is spaced apart from the laid-in selvedge and similarly can serve as an advertising medium in the woven fabric itself. While in a field arranged in the ground fabric only a single or one-fold weft thread density is present (in contrast to the doubled or two-fold weft thread density in the area of the laid-in selvedge), the thread materials preferably used for the ground fabric and the advertising medium field must, however, similarly be tuned or adapted to one another with respect to their characteristics, so that the ground fabric, the advertising medium field arranged in the ground fabric, and also the field in the laid-in selvedge are all free of waviness and also remain free of waviness after a thermal and/or chemical treatment possibly to be carried out as the case may be, and in fact during the entire weaving process of a warp beam to be woven-off.

Thus, with the invention there is provided a woven fabric in which falsifications or counterfeits are excluded or strongly limited, because the field is woven into the woven fabric. Moreover, due to a relatively high number of warp threads for the field or the name selvedge, a high optical quality of such an advertising medium is achieved. Because this advertising carrier moreover is arranged in the laid-in selvedge, which previously represented waste during the production of ready-made articles, the fabric waste during processing is reduced and the hemming of a woven fabric edge or selvedge is saved or avoided. The field or the name selvedge are so arranged that optical and esthetic highest requirements are satisfied. For a middle high standard for the quality of such a name selvedge, for example, 75 threads per centimeter of a quality of 135 Nm/3 are utilized, whereas in average jeans fabric the warp thread count lies in the range of 10 to 12. However also 100 warp threads per centimeter are entirely possible and realizable for the name selvedge, for example for a quality of the warp threads for the field in acetate or polyester. The quality and the number of the warp threads is carried out in correlation with the ground fabric, so that the entire woven fabric with the field serving as an advertising medium does not develop waves. On principle, natural fibers, cotton, acetate or the like can also be used for the warp threads of the field.

On principle, the so-called signature warp threads should/must have a similar quality as those of the ground fabric, or must also undergo the shrinkages arising in the finishing process of the finished woven fabric, for example, and namely in fact even though the name selvedge generally comprises considerably more warp threads than the ground fabric. In the areas of the name selvedge or the field in which no alphanumeric characters or logos or color surfaces are arranged, this field is preferably bound or woven-off as a symmetrical ground weave, whereby an additional stability of the selvedge is achieved.

Logos or alphanumeric characters produced both by weft bindings, as well as warp broché or embroidered bindings can be provided in the field, and namely both in the laid-in selvedge as well as in the field arranged in the ground fabric. The warp threads not bound-in or interlaced in that regard, are sheared off after the weaving process before the finishing.

Most often, an adaptation or matching between the warp thread material for the field and the thread material for the ground fabric with respect to the shrinkage will have to be carried out, which usually arises during the finishing process.

If in a first case the ground material does not shrink during the finishing process, then the material for the warp threads for the field must be selected so that it similarly does not shrink during the finishing process of the entire woven fabric.

If, for example, for jeans according to a second case, the ground fabric shrinks by approximately 10% during the finishing process, for example during the sanforization, then it must be ensured that the material of the field warp or the name selvedge warp similarly shrinks by 10%, so that even after the finishing process waviness arises neither in the field serving as the advertising medium, nor in the ground fabric.

If according to a third case the material of the ground fabric does not shrink in the finishing process, but the material utilized for the warp threads for the field would shrink in a finishing, then the warp thread material for the field can be subjected to a pre-shrinking process, so that during a subsequent is thermal finishing of the woven fabric, a further shrinking of this material is prevented. Thereby it is ensured that no waves arise or remain even for a non-shrinking woven fabric after the finishing process. The disadvantage of the doubled weft thread density in the field provided as an advertising medium in the area of the laid-in selvedge or the name selvedge provided for that purpose is converted into a technical as well as optical and esthetic advantage by the adaptation or matching of the characteristics of the warp thread material of the field with the characteristics of the material of the ground fabric. This adaptation or matching can also be carried out via an adaptation of the warp thread tensions, in such a manner so that due to tension variations, which are exerted in a controlled manner onto the respective material of the warp threads, can be achieved.

The field or the name selvedge is preferably also useable for labeling of ready-made articles or other articles utilizing the inventive woven fabric.

Regarding the Second Inventive Solution

The special feature of the second solution proposal according to claim 2 is that the ends of the weft thread end sections are not systematically covered in the field, but rather that the visibility of the ends to some extent remains left to chance. In that regard, it is ensured however, that the visible ends optically do not become apparent in an interfering or bothersome manner. For this purpose, the warp threads of the field are embodied at least in that area of the field in which the weft thread end sections are arranged with their ends, and at least the ends of the weft thread end sections are embodied with the same color. In practice in that regard, the weft thread end sections themselves or even the weft threads over their entire lengths will be the same color as the warp threads of the field in the mentioned area.

The ends of the weft thread end sections may thus be visible, but due to the color uniformity or equality, that is optically not further noticeable in an interfering or bothersome manner. The advantage relative to the first solution is that the production is not limited to those weave or binding types which ensure that the ends of the laid-in weft thread end sections are visible on the surface of the woven fabric neither on the top surface thereof nor on the bottom surface thereof. Thus, it is also possible to realize asymmetric weaves, such as a twill weave for example. In this regard, however, the adjustment for the weave can be selected so that the ends of the weft thread end sections are arranged on the woven fabric back side, for example like in a 3/1 or 2/1 twill weave or related types of weaves. Furthermore in this regard, double fabric weaves are similarly possible, and the ends of the weft thread end sections can be laid into the middle of the two double fabric weaves or bindings, so that they are not visible. In this case, the warp threads used in the field must be matched or adapted correspondingly to the ground fabric with regard to their fineness and number.

An approximation to the optical appearance of a woven fabric edge achieved with an endless weft thread is thus also possible with a woven fabric according to the second solution proposal according to claim 2. The appearance can be further improved, if, in the area of the field in which the ends of the weft thread end sections are arranged, an adaptation or matching of the material is also carried out, of which the weft threads of the ground fabric and the warp threads of the field consist. The best is naturally the same material.

In the second solution proposal according to claim 2 it is especially advantageous, if the number of the warp threads of the ground fabric relative to a length unit, and the number of the warp threads of the field, are the same. However, a compression or densification of the warp threads in the laid-in selvedge is also possible if this is adapted or matched to the laid-in selvedge weave. Moreover, it is also possible to carry out only a warp thread compression or densification at the end of the laid-in thread, that is to say at its tip. Due to the inventive color matching or conformity, such measures lead further to an improved appearance.

Regarding the Third Inventive Solution

The solution proposal according to claim 3 leads to an especially high-valued woven fabric with the field located therein, which comprises alphanumeric characters, logos or at least one color. Namely, in that the advantages of a weave-technical covering are combined or connected with those of the color conformity set forth in detail, therefore possibly still existing disadvantages of the one or the other manner of proceeding can easily be compensated or evened-out. Additionally, there remains a large selection possibility with respect to the weave types coming into consideration.

Besides, largely the same advantages apply to the woven fabrics according to the second and third solution proposals, that have already been thoroughly explained in connection with the first solution proposal according to claim 1.

The woven fabrics with field or name selvedge according to all three solution proposals can be produced in a known manner with a jacquard machine or with a heald shaft machine. The number and arrangement of the field warp threads is thereby controlled by means of heald shaft machines, jacquard machines, eccentric machines or similarly operating machines.

The machine can be multi-webbed or single-webbed. In that regard, each field can be produced with a separate jacquard machine for respectively different signatures, logos, etc. Several signatures, logos, etc. can, however, also be produced at several locations of the woven fabric with a single jacquard machine. Such a jacquard machine is also referred to as a name jacquard machine. For a weaving loom or machine for producing the woven fabric in a multi-web manner, outside or external selvedge tuckers and middle selvedge tuckers are provided, whereas for the single-web production of a woven fabric according to the invention only outside selvedge tuckers are arranged. In order to adapt or match the field arranged in the laid-in selvedge and serving as an advertising medium, with respect to the material used for these warp threads, to the material of the ground fabric of the woven fabric, the warp threads for the field or the name selvedge are drawn off from separately braked spools with adjustable tension, or are beamed on a warp beam with such a tension that the characteristics of the warp threads of the field are so adapted or matched to those of the ground fabric so that a field or a name selvedge can be produced without waves in the woven fabric. In that regard, the tension is held constant over the entire weaving process, whereby also a compensation for the diameter reduction of the spools or of the warp beam is provided, such as, for example, by means of a feeler roll or electronic devices for the automatic diameter compensation.

The invention will now be described in detail in the following in connection with the accompanying drawings for several example embodiments. In that regard, the FIGS. 1 to 6 relate to examples for the first inventive solution corresponding to the claim 1, and the FIGS. 7 and 8 relate to examples for the second and the third inventive solution corresponding to the claims 2 and 3. In the drawings it is shown by:

FIG. 1 a first example embodiment of a woven fabric according to the first inventive solution proposal;

FIG. 2 the example embodiment of a woven fabric according to FIG. 1, however schematically in a two-web production;

FIG. 3 a further example embodiment of an inventive woven fabric with a field in the laid-in selvedge and additionally a field in the ground fabric;

FIG. 4 an enlarged illustration of the signature in the field of the laid-in selvedge according to FIG. 3;

FIG. 5 a an example of a woven fabric with a field in the laid-in selvedge and with a field comprising a woven-in pocket in the ground fabric;

FIG. 5 b a side view of the field with pocket from FIG. 5 a in a principle illustration;

FIG. 6 a gripper weaving loom in a principle illustration with a jacquard machine for the production of a woven fabric with a field as an advertising medium;

FIG. 7 two example embodiments of a woven fabrics according to the second and the third inventive solution proposal; and

FIG. 8 a further example woven fabric according to the second inventive solution proposal.

An inventive woven fabric according to a first example embodiment is illustrated in FIG. 1. Schematically, two sides of the woven fabric are illustrated, whereby the woven fabric comprises a laid-in selvedge 29 or 34 on each side and a ground fabric 33 therebetween. The white zig-zag line interrupting the ground fabric simply makes clear that the right part of the inventive woven fabric illustrated in FIG. 1 is a mirror image of the left part. Therefore, for simplification, reference will only be made to the left part in FIG. 1. The running successive reference characters 1 to 28 schematically represent the warp threads in the area of the laid-in selvedge 29 as well as a part of the ground fabric 33. The warp threads 1 to 28 are illustrated vertically in FIG. 1, whereas the weft threads 30 are illustrated horizontally. The weft threads 30 are guided with the weft thread end sections 31 back again into the laid-in selvedge 29 at the woven fabric edge, and there they are woven-in with the respective warp threads 1 to 18. The weft thread ends 32 are simply shown with respect to their respective still-visible part of the weft thread end section 31 with the reference character 32, whereby the direct ends 32 of the weft thread end sections 31 are covered by the warp threads 14 to 18.

According to the example embodiment illustrated in FIG. 1, two warp threads, 1, 2 are arranged in a 1/1 weave, that is to say a plain weave. The 1/1 weave of these warp threads 1, 2 at the border of the woven fabric best guarantees a straight woven fabric edge. Preferably these are two warp threads, but it is also possible that 4, 6, 8 or more of such threads are provided. The number of these warp threads at the edge of the woven fabric depends on at which location in the laid-in selvedge 29, 34 the field 37 shall be arranged. In order to achieve a good quality of the woven fabric edge, the individual threads of a weave pattern repeat can be individually braked.

In principle it is possible that the field 37 in the laid-in selvedge 29, 34 directly adjoins these plain weave warp threads. According to the example embodiment illustrated in FIG. 1, four warp threads 3, 4, 5, 6 of which the number is freely selectable however, are provided in a symmetrical weave. The symmetrical weave has the advantage that a corresponding stability is achieved for the selvedge, so that the selvedge does not “roll”. For these warp threads 3 to 6, a counter weave or counter binding for each weft thread is not absolutely necessary.

In order that the field 37 or the name selvedge does not “run off”, minimally one pattern repeat of respectively two warp threads, the so-called border warp threads 7, 8 or 19, 20 is arranged next to the direct field. These border warp threads 7, 8 or 19, 20 thus bound the direct field 37 or the direct name selvedge and are provided with a plain weave for a nice clean transition. It is, however, also possible to provide a larger group of ground weave bindings, and it is further possible to provide the transition between the direct field 37 to the ground fabric 33 or the border area of the woven fabric in the form of a small satin strip. According to the definition, the border warp threads 7, 8 or 19, 20 are a part of the field 37 or of the name selvedge, so that the field 37 or the name selvedge is formed of the warp threads 7 to 20.

The direct field is formed by the warp threads 9 to 18. It should comprise such a width that the ends 32 of the weft thread end sections 31 are covered. According to the definition it is, however, also possible that these weft thread ends 32 are covered by the border warp threads 19, 20. The border warp threads 7, 8 or 19, 20 are illustrated with a plain weave in the example embodiment according to FIG. 1. It is, however, also possible to weave them with a 2,2 or double fabric weave.

In FIG. 2, two inventive woven fabrics that are woven next to one another on a weaving loom are illustrated, so that this relates to a multi-web (in the special example embodiment according to FIG. 2 a two-web) production of the inventive woven fabric. The basic construction of the individual woven fabric webs is identical to that according to FIG. 1. Each of the two woven fabric webs 35, 36 respectively comprises one laid-in selvedge 29, 34. Because the woven fabric webs 35, 36 are produced next to one another on a weaving loom, the two laid-in selvedges 34 and 29 lying outwardly in FIG. 2 with their respective field 37 or name selvedges are produced by so-called outer selvedge tuckers, whereas the two laid-in selvedges 34 and 29 of the two woven fabric webs 35 and 36 located in the middle and facing one another with their respective fields 37 or name selvedges are produced by so-called middle selvedge tuckers.

A further example embodiment is schematically illustrated in FIG. 3, in which in a simplified illustrated laid-in selvedge, in which the warp threads 1 to 6 are not shown, a field 37 or a name selvedge is provided. Moreover, in this example embodiment, a further field 38 or a further name selvedge is arranged in the ground fabric 33. Both in the field 37 as well as in the field 38, signatures are woven in. In FIG. 3 these signatures are especially easily recognizable, if looking at the figure from the side at a sharp or acute angle. For example, the signature “Dornier” is woven into the field 37, whereas the reference “new fashion” is woven into the field 38. Because the principle construction of this woven fabric corresponds to that shown in FIG. 1 or FIG. 2, in a simplified manner only the essential things are referenced in FIG. 3.

FIG. 4 shows an enlarged cut-out section of the signature 39 “Dornier” in the field 37 according to FIG. 3. Also here, the signature can easily be identified by viewing the drawing at a very sharp acute angle.

The FIGS. 5 a and 5 b show an example embodiment of an inventive woven fabric in which a field 37 with a signature 39 is arranged in a laid-in selvedge 29. Moreover, a further field 38 with a signature 39 is woven-in within the ground fabric 33. The woven fabric is shown in a principle illustration in a top plan view in FIG. 5 a. A pocket 40 is woven into the field 38, which pocket is connected in a weave-technical manner with the woven fabric of the field 38 by means of a double fabric weave or a hose or tubular weave. In that regard it is possible to embody the pocket in any form. The pocket is provided for the purpose of receiving an ornamental or jewelry article or a sensor or a gemstone, and can be adapted or matched with respect to its form to the form of the article to be received, and can be woven-in in this manner.

A principle illustration of a side view of the woven fabric of FIG. 5 a is shown in FIG. 5 b. From that it is recognizable, that the pocket 40 is woven onto the top side of the field 38, which also carries the signature 39, by means of the mentioned double fabric weave or a hose or tubular weave. Thus, a greater thickness of the woven fabric is present at the location of the pocket.

In principle it is naturally also possible to provide such pockets in the field 37 in the laid-in selvedge at desired spacing distances. For the sake of simplicity, such a pocket is illustrated only in connection with the field 38.

In a principle illustration, FIG. 6 shows a gripper weaving loom, in which a jacquard machine 41 is used for producing an inventive woven fabric according to FIG. 1 with a field 37 arranged in each laid-in selvedge 29, 34. The weaving loom illustrated in FIG. 6 comprises a single jacquard machine 41 with corresponding harnesses, whereby only the outermost harnesses 42 are illustrated for the sake of a simplifying illustration. The harnesses are guided over a comber board 43 to heddles 44 with a corresponding thread eye 44 a, so that the heddles 44 can be lifted or lowered for the formation of a loom shed. Within the loom shed in the area of the ground fabric, the weft threads 30 are transferred or given-over with an insertion gripper 45 to a drawing-out gripper 46, and are drawn or carried out of the loom shed. The weft thread material is guided or delivered to the insertion gripper 45 from a spool 47 via a thread presenter or reaching-in device. The laid-in weft thread end sections are laid into the woven fabric with respective selvedge laying-in needles 49, 50, so that a laid-in selvedge arises, into which the respective fields 37 are woven-in. The principle construction of the inventive woven fabric has already been described in connection with FIG. 1 and is therefore not explained in more detail in FIG. 6.

The construction of the inventive weaving loom is in principle identical for an air jet loom. Depending on the embodiment, however, for each field or for each name selvedge a separate jacquard machine can be provided. Moreover it is also possible, to provide a heald shaft machine or a corresponding number of heald shaft machines instead of a jacquard machine 41. In this case, the heddles 44 are arranged in a heald frame, which is operated by a heald or eccentric machine for the loom shed formation.

Woven fabrics according to first example embodiments of the invention according to the second solution proposal are illustrated in FIG. 7. In that regard, the woven fabric is illustrated schematically with its left side and its right side while omitting a large part of the woven fabric located in the middle. The woven fabric illustrated in the middle is also referred to as the ground fabric 140. Laid-in selvedges 135 or 136 are located both on the left side of the ground fabric 140 as well as on its right side. For explanation of the second and of the third inventive solution proposals, the two laid-in selvedges 135 and 136 are embodied differently in FIG. 7. In practice, one would more likely embody the two laid-in selvedges 135 and 136 to be the same.

First, reference will be had only to the left part of the woven fabric according to FIG. 7 with the laid-in selvedge 135.

The ground fabric 140 is formed by warp threads 118 to 134 et seq., whereas the laid-in selvedge 135 is formed by warp threads 101 to 117. The field 144 arranged in the area of the laid-in selvedge 135, which field is often also referred to as a name selvedge, logo selvedge or brand selvedge, is formed by the area of all threads that encompass the weft thread end sections 138 of the weft threads 137. According to the second inventive solution proposal in that regard, the ends 139 of the end sections 138 are not covered in the area of the field 144. Thus, the field 144 is especially formed by the direct field warp threads 109 to 117 that determine the width of the actual field 144, as well as by the possibly present border warp threads 101 to 108 that bound the actual field 144 in the area of the woven fabric edge. According to the example embodiment shown in FIG. 7, the border warp threads 101, 102 are arranged in a 1/1 weave, that is to say a plain weave. This weave on the direct border of the woven fabric best guarantees a straight woven fabric edge.

The laid-in selvedge 135 of the inventive woven fabric in the illustration of FIG. 7 thus consists of the edge-side border warp threads 101 to 108 and the field warp threads 109 to 117 of the field 144. In that regard, the edge-side border warp threads 101 to 108 have the same color as the warp threads 118 to 134 et seq. of the ground fabric 140, whereas the field warp threads 109 to 117 of the laid-in selvedge 135 comprise the same color as the weft thread 138 of the woven fabric.

The difference relative to the first inventive solution proposal now exists in that in the laid-in selvedge 135, the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138 are not systematically covered, and consequently are partially visible. The ends 139 of the weft thread end section 138 of the fourth, ninth, fourteenth and nineteenth weft thread 137 from the top are covered in contrast thereto. The section a in the area of the field warp threads 109 to 117 of the field 144 characterizes the scattering or dispersion of the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138. It is to be understood that this is shown only in an exemplary manner, whereby this scattering or dispersion above all arises with air jet weaving looms, that is to say weft thread end sections 138 that are pneumatically laid-in. For mechanically laid-in weft thread end sections 138, this scattering or dispersion is somewhat smaller, but in principle however also present in that case.

In contrast thereto, in the laid-in selvedge 136 to the right in FIG. 7 with the field 145, the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138 are additionally covered by the field warp threads 109 to 117 and are not shown in FIG. 7, so that the embodiment of the laid-in selvedge 136 is different from the laid-in selvedge 135. In this area of the field, the weave is embodied as a satin weave. The laid-in selvedge 136 in the right illustration of FIG. 7 thus explains the third solution proposal according to the invention.

For the two laid-in selvedges 135 and 136, the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138, however, are located in the area of the warp threads 109 to 117 of the field 144 or 145, of which the color is identical to that of the weft thread 137. Therefore, the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138 are optically not visible or barely visible even in the case in which they are not covered.

The illustration according to FIG. 7 and also according to FIG. 8 illustrates a strongly enlarged view of the woven fabric, as can clearly be understood, in order to illustrate the various weaves. In contrast thereto, in normal woven fabrics, the optical visibility of the weft thread ends 139 on the top surface of a woven fabric section recedes or diminishes already when this part of the woven fabric is formed of threads of the same color, as that is the case in the area of the field that is formed by the warp threads 108 to 117.

A further example embodiment according to the invention is illustrated in FIG. 8, in which the two laid-in selvedges 135 and 136 are constructed with three colors and are embodied identically yet mirror symmetrically relative to one another or with respect to the ground fabric 140. The edge-side border warp threads 101 and 102 again form a 1/1 weave, whereas the warp threads 103 to 118 are embodied in a 2/2 weave, in which the threads are laid-in two times due to the laid-in weft thread end sections, that is to say four threads are present.

According to this example embodiment once again the ends 139 of the weft thread end sections 138 are visible, but are arranged in the area of the field 146, in which the color of the weft threads 137 is identical with the color of the warp threads utilized there, which is the case in the area of the warp thread 113 to 118. The laid-in selvedge 135 as well as the laid-in selvedge 136 are formed by stripes or strips, whereby the edge-side border warp threads 101 to 106 comprise a first color, the field warp threads 107 to 112 comprise a second color, and the field warp threads 113 to 118 comprise a third color. In that regard, in the present example embodiment (even if only illustrated in a black and white illustration), the color of these warp threads 101 to 106, 107 to 112 or 113 to 118 is so selected that thereby the stripes of a national flag are shown. In the present case, that could be the German flag with black border warp threads 101 to 106, red field warp threads 107 to 112, and yellow field warp threads 113 to 118. The illustrated color stipes 141, 142, 143 in that regard may be selected as desired depending on the arrangement of the warp thread colors in the area of the field 146. In each case it is decisive, that color conformity or equivalence exists in the area of the weft thread ends 139 between the weft thread end regions 138 and the field warp threads 113 to 118.

The woven fabrics according to the second solution proposal corresponding to the FIGS. 7 and 8 can be produced in the same manner, as that has been described in connection with the FIG. 6 for the first solution proposal.

REFERENCE NUMBER LIST

For the FIGS. 1 to 6:

-   1 to 8 edge-side border warp threads -   9 to 18 field warp threads -   19, 20 border warp threads in transition to ground fabric -   21 to 28 warp threads of the ground fabric -   29 laid-in selvedge -   30 weft thread -   31 weft thread end section -   32 weft thread end -   33 ground fabric -   34 laid-in selvedge -   35 woven fabric web -   36 woven fabric web -   37 field/name selvedge -   38 field/name selvedge -   39 signature/letter sequence -   40 pocket -   41 jacquard machine -   42 outer harness -   43 comber board -   44 heddle, 44 a thread eye -   45 insertion gripper -   46 drawing-out gripper -   47 spool -   48 thread presenter or reaching-in device -   49,50 laying-in needles -   51 fabric edge (border)

For the FIGS. 7 and 8:

-   101 to 108 edge-side border warp threads -   109 to 117 field warp threads -   118 to 134 warp threads of the ground fabric -   135 laid-in selvedge -   136 laid-in selvedge -   137 weft thread -   138 weft thread end section -   139 weft thread end -   140 ground fabric -   141 color stripe or strip -   142 color stripe or strip -   143 color stripe or strip -   144 field -   145 field -   146 field -   147 woven fabric edge (border) -   a dispersion width of the weft thread ends 

1. Woven fabric with a laid-in selvedge (29, 34) formed by laid-in weft thread end sections (31), characterized by the following features: a) at least one field (37) with alphanumeric characters, logos or at least one color, especially as an advertising medium or brand mark, is woven into the woven fabric in the laid-in selvedge (29, 34); b) the field (37) is woven-in with such a width laterally adjoining onto the ground fabric (33) comprising weft threads (21 to 38), that the ends (32) of the laid-in weft thread end sections (31) are covered in a weave-technical manner by the field (37); c) the ends (32) of the laid-in weft thread end sections (31) are visible on the surface of the woven fabric neither on the top side thereof nor on the bottom side thereof; wherein d) at least weft threads (30) of the ground fabric (33) and warp threads of the field (37) are so adapted to one another that the field (37) optically corresponds essentially to a woven fabric edge produced with an endless weft thread.
 2. Woven fabric with a laid-in selvedge (135, 136) formed by laid-in weft thread end sections, characterized by the following features: a) at least one field (144, 146) with alphanumeric characters, logos or at least one color, especially as an advertising medium, is woven into the woven fabric in the laid-in selvedge (135, 136); b) the field (144, 146) is woven-in with such a width laterally adjoining onto the ground fabric (140) comprising weft threads (137), that the ends (139) of the laid-in weft thread end sections (138) are located in the field (137) and are optically at least essentially not visible therein, wherein c) the warp threads of the field (137), at least in an area of the field (137) in which the weft thread end sections (138) are arranged with their ends (139), and at least the ends (139) of the weft thread end sections (138) are of the same color.
 3. Woven fabric with a laid-in selvedge (136) formed by laid-in weft thread end sections (138), characterized by the following features: a) at least one field (145) with alphanumeric characters, logos or at least one color, especially as an advertising medium or brand mark, is woven into the woven fabric in the laid-in selvedge (136); b) the field (145) is woven-in with such a width laterally adjoining onto the ground fabric (140), that the ends (139) of the laid-in weft thread end sections (138) are covered in a weave-technical manner by the field (145); c) the warp threads of the field (145), at least in the area of the field (145) in which the weft thread end sections (138) are arranged with their ends (139), are of the same color as the weft thread end sections (138). 4 to
 19. (canceled) 